In late June/early July I'm moving into a new flat. The building has been under construction since the start of last year, the walls have taken in a lot of water, and even now after it rains it's wet inside (the roof is still being put on). I'm planning on laying Barlinek floorboard (ash). How long should the house be dried out before I can lay the boards? Does Barlinek floorboard have to be lain as a floating floor, or can it be glued to the screed? What are the requirements regarding screed moisture content?
Of course the Barlinek floorboard can be glued. The drying time depends on the environmental conditions and cannot be predicted. There are buildings which dry out immediately, and those which take an eternity. One thing is certain - the contractor has to measure the moisture content of the underlay and surrounding air. The permissible moisture content of the underlay is 2% CM, and air humidity 45-60%. These values are included in the inserts in every pack.
Conditions for storing Barlinek floorboards
I want to buy Barlinek Jatoba board. I have to store it in a house which doesn't have heating yet. Please let me know whether low temperatures ruin the board, and what is the lowest temperature in which the floorboard can be stored.
The floorboard must be stored at a temperature no lower than 15°C and in air humidity within 45-60%.
- It should be stored horizontally. The optimum storage conditions are 45-50% air moisture content and 18°C. Then the moisture content of the wood will be no more than 8-9%.
Acclimatisation of floorboards in a room before assembly.
Should floorboards be left for a few days to acclimatise in the rooms where they are to be laid? What should be the minimum distance from the wall after laying the floor?
A floorboard should be left in the room where it is to be laid for 48 hours before assembly. Distance from the wall c. 10 mm
Problem with a floorboard during renovation
Hello, while building my house I bought exotic padouk Barlinek floorboards and red & white padouk. The floor was assembled by the firm I bought them from. Since the finishing work was still in progress (painting, plastering walls) we covered the floor with a thick layer of foil. However, after removing this, it turned out that on some parts of the floor there were unsightly holes of various sizes (a huge amount of them). I was surprised by this, unfortunately, since the floor was expensive, padouk is apparently an amazingly hard wood, and the final result turned out to be nothing special. And it's hard to accept we're moving into a home with a ruined floor... Please advise and help with this.
It's not a matter of durability, just mechanical damage to the floor. The worst thing was laying a floor in such conditions. I never recommend that to customers. Protecting the floorboards with foil is also a very bad habit. Basically you should now plane away the damage and revarnish.
10 mm difference in levels - what's the solution?
I need to even out the surfaces of my flat and it's necessary to lay 10mm of underlay under the boards. Can I do this using double underlay of EKO (2x5mm) tiles?
Unfortunately not. You can use, for example, OSB 8 mm tiles and cork mat on top of that.
Screed and ground beams, or aggregate and OSB tiles - which is the best method of levelling?
After removing the old screed on the first floor of a residential building I've got one room 50-80 mm lower and another 100-130mm lower compared to the level of the hall. Can the whole space be filled in with aggregate (e.g. ceramsite) and covered with OSB tiles, on which Barlinek floorboards or a traditional floor would be laid? Wouldn't putting in heavy furniture cause the floor to collapse? Or would a better solution be to make levelling screed and lay ground beams, and then OSB tiles on top of them?
The second solution is definitely better.
How to lay floorboards
Is it true that a floor should be laid with the floorboards lengthwise into the light?
NO. In many cases this is a bad idea. Above all, Barlinek floorboards should be laid lengthwise all along the longest wall.
Expansion gap
How much of a gap should be used in a hornbeam floor with an area of 15x20 metres? How much of a gap should be used in an oak floor of the same area?
An expansion gap should always be left where the length of the surface over the width of the floorboards is greater than 8m, and over the length greater than 12m. So the largest surface in the optimum configuration is 96 m². On a surface of 300 m² there must be one central gap along and across the surface. It can be a wooden or metal skirting floorboard of your choice. If the floor is to be glued, it can be 10 mm thick expansion cork. The variety of wood is irrelevant here.
Board on underfloor heating with beams?
I have a question about wooden floors and underfloor water heating. I'd most like to use floorboards on beams (apparently you don't have to make screed then), and run heating pipes between the beams. How does this work with Barlinek boards?
In the case of Barlinek boards, screed is required with the pipes sunk into it. It is better if the floorboard is glued down. I wouldn't choose the beam option.
Which elements should I pay attention to while laying a wooden floor on a base with underfloor heating?
Which elements should I pay attention to while laying a wooden floor on a base with underfloor heating?
On heating the floor during the four weeks before assembly. The floor must be heated and then cooled the day before laying.
What is better - gluing down the floor or floating assembly?
I've just bought Barlinek floorboards (family life maple). Should I lay them normally (a so-called floating floor) or maybe glue them to the floor, which apparently makes it quieter?
It's always more solid if you glue the floor down.
What should I install first: the floor, or the doors?
What should I install first: the floor, or the doors?
The floor should always be laid first, if possible.
The best glue for attaching Barlinek floorboards to the floor
I've heard that Barlinek floorboards can be glued to the floor. Is this true? I know it didn't used to be possible. Why has it changed? Does gluing not make the floorboard vulnerable to negative side effects?
This is the result of certain progress made in work on the technology. Barlinek needed time for research and needed good adhesives. Today Barlinek recommends Barlinek 1K PU glue, but someone with the knowledge and skill can just as effectively use any polyurethane adhesive. Please, though, do not use adhesives other than that mentioned. The floorboard is stuck down more stably and is better to use.
Türkçe
English
Ürünler > Barlinek Support > How to choose the right floor?
